When a person plans to repair, he first of all thinks about the future design of the room. Wallpaper, drywall or decorative plaster, suspended or suspended ceiling, laminate or carpet, etc. However, whatever the design decision, it is necessary to remember the observance of the repair technology. It depends on her how many years the new interior will delight the eye.
Chipped corners, cracks in ceilings, walls and joints are one of the most common consequences of non-compliance with repair technologies for indoor and outdoor use. The appearance of such deformations is the result of an illiterate approach to interior decoration, ensuring the strength of its vulnerable areas. Special construction tapes are called to solve this problem.
The use of reinforcing materials - sickles, paper and metallized ribbons ensures that the finish will last much longer.
Serpyanka (self-adhesive tape), which is a grid of dacron, fiberglass or polypropylene, serves to prevent the formation of cracks, strengthen the surfaces of walls and ceilings, including at the joints. Due to the mesh structure, air does not enter into it, which eliminates the occurrence of swelling and unevenness. A unique feature of the serpyanka is that it is impregnated with an adhesive composition that makes it easy to fasten it to any surface prepared for reinforcement. It is enough to cut a piece of the required length from the roll and, sticking it on the seam, simply putty it. After the putty has dried, it is necessary to level the seam with sandpaper, after which it is possible to finish the work.
The construction bandage is ultra-thin and of high strength, the basis for it is polypropylene. It is recommended for use in thin-layer finishing work, when the putty layer does not exceed one millimeter. The self-adhesive fiberglass sickle has a mesh structure and a non-drying, evenly applied adhesive composition, which allows even non-professionals to perform work quickly, technologically and efficiently. Serpyanka not only prevents the formation of new cracks, but is also used for gluing existing cracks on surfaces before painting and wallpapering. It is irreplaceable in gluing places of adjoining window and door frames to walls, in places of joints of walls and ceilings, as well as in gluing joints of drywall and other sheet materials, continuous reinforcing of surfaces of walls and ceilings.
Corner paper tape is used to reinforce the joints between sheets of drywall. Corner protection tape is made of cellulose with the inclusion of lavsan (to give chemical neutrality). It is environmentally friendly, resistant to mechanical stress, has good absorbency. The tapes along the entire length have an axial inflection line. It is used when working with drywall to harden the internal and external corners of structures, to prevent mechanical damage to the corners, to increase the strength characteristics of gypsum boards, to align the angles during installation. The tape is fixed with putty, chemically neutral, easy to use.
Corner protection tape with metal stripes (metallized) significantly increases the strength of the outer corners and protects them from chips and damage. It is a strip of paper with high resistance to abrasion and other mechanical loads with a width of 50 ± 1 mm with two strips of metal glued to it with a width of 10 + 1 mm, at a fixed distance between them. This product employs a new advanced technology of metal to paper connection, which can significantly extend the life of this product. This technology improves the quality of the metal to paper bond and prevents peeling even when the product is in the humid environment for a long time.
It is used to work with gypsum boards, aerated concrete blocks, as well as to create a perfectly right angle, which allows you to glue the wallpaper without cropping and shifting the picture. The main material used in the manufacture of tapes is chrome steel, additionally varnished, which provides double protection against corrosion, as well as special paper with high density and adhesion, not subject to abrasion. The metal strips must be glued firmly along the entire length of the tape, without any non-glued sections. It is used for high-quality painting of walls, window and door slopes.
The plastic angle-forming tape is a strip of paper with high resistance to abrasion and other mechanical stresses with a width of 50 ± 1 mm with two strips of plastic glued to it with a width of 10 + 1 mm, at a fixed distance between them. The main material used in the manufacture of tapes is plastic, which completely eliminates the corrosion possible with the use of metallized angle-forming tapes, as well as special paper with high density and adhesion, not subject to abrasion. The product uses a new advanced technology for combining plastic with paper, which can significantly extend the life of this product. This technology improves the quality of the connection of plastic with paper and prevents peeling even when the product is in the humid environment for a long time.
The tape effectively strengthens the seams between the sheets of drywall and prevents the appearance of cracks formed due to weak movement in the structure. It hides minor defects that occur during the installation of drywall sheets and other materials, makes the angle perfectly straight, which allows you to glue wallpaper without cutting and shifting the pattern, significantly reduces the consumption of plaster mortars and building mixtures, increases the mechanical strength of corner surfaces.
The use of construction tapes allows you to forget about cracks and perform high-quality repairs.
It is important to treat putty with all the scrupulousness that you only have. Dilute the solution only in a clean, almost sterile bucket. Any foreign objects and dirt must be removed, as a small thread or pebbles will necessarily stick to the spatula and remain on the walls. The first batch of the solution is over - wash the bucket and knead a new one. It is advisable to get a special bucket only for these works. In general, make it a rule to keep all tools clean!
Many people come to the store and take the most expensive and “coolest” spatula, concluding that it is good, forming their opinion only on the basis of a high price. In fact, everything is much simpler. It is necessary to take the tool that suits you, despite its price. Checking your “compatibility” with a spatula is very simple. We take a wide spatula and apply it to the wall. Inspect the joint for gaps. If they are, then continue the search. We tilt the tool and check again, only slight deviations in the corners are permissible. Try to take a soft gun. Since you are a beginner, your movements are fuzzy. A hard putty knife will leave strips after you press it too hard against the wall. A flexible tool will adapt to your movements. A tough weapon will suit the master of his craft. Only a professional will cope with such a tool. Since you need two spatulas to work, choose one wide to forty sentiments, and the second to twelve. A narrow putty knife is needed to remove the putty. When working on the tool, the material sticks and dries, do not forget to clean it.
Wrong putty solution
This is the trouble of all novice putty workers. If you compare, then a properly diluted solution is similar to a greasy sour cream. We stick a narrow spatula into the solution along the handle. It’s worth and doesn’t collapse - everything is fine. We pick up the material and put on a wide spatula, turn it over in the air. A good solution will stay without problems. However, it is worth remembering that the finish layer is made more liquid solution. Dry putty simply does not stick to the first layer and will crumble. The way out of the situation may be a thin layer of primer applied to the first layer.
It is important to know that it is necessary to deal with the primer three, four hours before puttying. Otherwise, you will not putty the walls, but simply iron them with a spatula, on which dried material will accumulate. If you have to putty intensely absorbing walls, then do the primer in a couple of minutes and spray them with water.
Puttying from the corners of the walls
These places are the most crooked. That is, starting the putty process from this place, you will only exacerbate the curvature. It is more correct to begin work by five centimeters stepping back to the side. Start work with corners when this layer of putty dries. Focusing on it like a lighthouse, you get an even angle. Work is important gradually. We wait until one side dries and only then proceed to the other. If you became the owner of an apartment with round corners, then initially you will have to work as a puncher. You will not get even corners using only putty.
Wrong type of putty
It is necessary to buy putty with an exact plan of what you are doing next. If your next step is wallpapering, then there’s nothing complicated - any one will do. Painting also requires finishing putty with a fine fraction. In this case, it is necessary to approach the choice of putty very carefully, since the wallpaper hides flaws in the form of stripes or dents, and the paint, on the contrary, makes them more obvious. Even a small scratch will be striking. Therefore, covering the wall with the intention of subsequently applying paint to it, do this with additional lighting.
Wallpaper at the junction - how to fix it? | ServiceYard - the comfort of your home is in your hands| ServiceYard - the comfort of your home is in your hands
Many faced a problem when the joints are perfect when gluing the walls, and after drying, cracks appear between the sheets, which worsen the appearance of the coating.
In fact, there are a number of reasons why the coating diverges, and in order to avoid unnecessary work, it is better to do everything immediately in accordance with the technology.
But if nevertheless the joints parted, then the problem can be solved in several ways, we will also consider them in this review.
In the photo, such a gap between the sheets significantly affects the appearance
We fix the diverged wallpaper
Some types of wallpaper canvases after applying an adhesive composition to them increase in size. For example, paper roll materials after contact with glue can add up to 6 mm in width.
In the process, this will not cause difficulties, such a change often goes unnoticed. But as the wallpaper dries, their size will return to the original, which will lead to the formation of a gap at the junction of the strips of glued material.
Paper, textile, vinyl and some types of non-woven wallpaper tend to swell when in contact with glue. Keep this in mind when working with the blade.
What to do so that the gaps at the junction are not visible?
It is enough to observe some rules during gluing.
- Do not over-soak the material. Apply glue, wait for the necessary degree of moisture, and begin to glue the canvas before it swells.
- Avoid excess glue. Roll materials usually taper when dried in the case when there is a lot of adhesive under them - this does not allow them to grasp the surface of the wall.
- Fix the edges of the paintings with special glue for joints, prying them with a spatula and securing with a rubber roller.
There are several ways to get rid of the distance between strips of wallpaper.
The main and most laborious of them is painting the entire surface. To avoid this, grout for ceramic tiles will help. Add the color of the desired color to it, achieve the desired shade and apply in small quantities to the joints. You can use a conventional marker or pencil. For these purposes, a mixture of the top layer of wallpaper and glue is also suitable. Rub with sandpaper the front side of the unwanted trim of the wallpaper, add special or regular PVA glue and putty the seams with this mixture.
In order not to glue the wallpaper in the whole room, you can install moldings and special panels.
Such a decor of the room will not only hide defects, but will also become a fashionable touch in the interior of the room.
Wallpaper went to the joints - some solutions and tips to avoid this problem
A simpler option will be gluing on a seam of decorative paper borders, ribbons, cords, fringes or a regular patch from the same wallpaper with the right pattern.
You can re-glue the wallpaper at the junction. To do this, soak the edges of the paintings with warm or hot water using a spray bottle. Wait until they are sufficiently moist and swollen.
Put enough glue on them, pull towards each other and press firmly against the wall to fix, smooth with a rubber roller.
Remove glue on the front side of the wallpaper
A common problem when performing repairs without the help of specialists is the glue that has appeared at the junction of the wallpaper.
It would seem that the adhesive would not be visible due to transparency. However, its traces will shine under the light, may change the color of rolled materials or even spoil them, and the seams in this case will be visible to the naked eye.
To avoid such troubles, before applying the glue, read the instructions for its use.
Often, if the adhesive solution dries quickly and is difficult to remove, manufacturers indicate these features on the packaging.
Do not allow excess glue to form. In this case, he will not appear on the seam when smoothing wallpaper. If such a nuisance did happen, then there is only one way out - try to erase the glue stains with a damp, clean cloth.
At the same time, do not exert much effort so as not to spoil the glued wallpaper.
Eliminate the curled edges of the wallpaper at the junction
In case of violation of the plastering technology, the edges of the wallpaper at the junction can move away and twist together with the plaster.
This can happen when using low-quality finishing materials. Therefore, saving when buying materials is not recommended.
The most common such defect when using textile roll materials. In this case, not only the wallpaper canvas narrows during drying, but also the upper decorative layer of textile.
What to do if the wallpaper at the seam site has diverged?
To eliminate this, only additional sizing of the edges of the canvas will help with the help of special glue for joints and a rubber roller.
Correct the uneven color and cut of the wallpaper
Some wallpaper rolls do not match in color from two edges.
When looking at one unwound fabric, color differences will not be visible. However, when sticking materials, a sharp color transition at the junction will be striking. Take into account this feature will help reverse wall pasting with two rolls. That is, gluing the second section of the web “upside down” with respect to the first.
In order not to resort to "correctional labor", before starting installation, read the instructions on the wallpaper roll.
Typically, the manufacturer leaves them with special signs that indicate a specific gluing technique.
The uneven cut and color of the roll will help to hide the painting of the seam.
This can be done either by special means, or with a conventional felt-tip pen or pencil. It is important to choose the right color that will be as close as possible to the color of the glued wallpaper. Hide elements with uneven sections will also help decorative elements for wallpaper: edging, borders, ribbons, etc.
Remember, each type of roll material reacts differently to different processing.
If the paper wallpaper after applying glue is sure to swell, then the non-woven ones can withstand this test. Before you get to work, familiarize yourself with the features of the selected type of wallpaper and the technology for gluing them. First of all, pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on the package. The choice of high-quality building materials and the observance of certain rules during work will help to avoid difficulties with the correction of the resulting deficiencies.
How to glue non-woven wallpaper on the walls?
How to paste wallpaper on the OSB plate?
What to do - run behind the back of the joints? How to attach wallpaper?
There are several ways to solve this problem:
1) Before you stick the wallpaper, insert special paper, tape (ask in stores) in the places where the wallpaper is installed.
On paper, it’s better to keep the background better than on the wall. But then there is a small side effect - the relief of the deformation will be highlighted (especially on thin, fleece, wallpaper.
На толстом виниле он может и не будет заметным).
2) теперь имеются специальные адгезивы для адгезии суставов. По сравнению с обычными клеями, они гораздо более красивым фоном.
Для качественного клея суставов я рекомендую использовать специальные пластиковые цилиндры. Они имеют ребристую форму, что способствует лучшему давлению на фоне (спросите в магазинах).
Unpacking the background at intersections is one of the most common corrective errors.
If you notice that the background was attached, you should immediately stick to it and carefully bend the wallpaper and apply glue with the tiny brush that was applied when applying the background to the wall. The background on the joints should be compressed, aligned so that there are no wrinkles and walk around the joint with a roller or dry soft tissue.
If the background has been cleaned within a few months after the repair, you should first wet a small amount of background water from the inside. Five minutes later, when the old glue is wet, remove pieces of spilled pepper from the back with a soft brush.
Then a thin layer of wallpaper and wall and gently align the joints and forehead of the sponge in the background to remove excess glue. Then press on it with a soft cloth and smoothly.
The background can be glued with special glue for the joints.
The glue is sold in small tubes ready-made. It can be used for all types of wallpapers, it does not expand, fast stripes, after drying it becomes transparent.
What course of glue, glue should be taken (take PVA) is more reliable and multiply and do not need to be soaked, with a thin brush, smear a little deeper and a clean, dry cloth to sew the (ribbed) cylinders to sew and cannot be repaired.
The glue, rolling, mop and all PVA glue is better, I will not wallpaper lag, I do not recommend adding PVA glue in the final coating solution, when kleite background is repaired about 1 PVA 10 wallpapers (heavy accuracy is not important!), Then there will be no problems with congestion / ribs.
In specialized adhesive binder shops, they are usually made in a convenient tube, which is enough to give a thin layer of glue and carefully press on the wall, excess glue should immediately be removed with a soft cloth or the background will be damaged.
If you can’t buy glue, you can use any wallpaper (of course, as part of the appropriate type of wallpaper), lubricate the joints with a brush (I was small, so much of the old cut) and a thoroughly smooth binding site.
If the background moves a little, regularly practice the tip of the medical syringe in its glue and gently pierce small holes in the wallpaper and spray adhesives, then the fabric rubs the joints, glue evenly, and the hole is small - you can see that this is not so, don’t worry.
This is already 100. As a rule, there are all wallpapers of low quality, so in the future you will be better. But my method works and is very effective.
In stores, find a special glue called:
I recently stitched seams with such glue ...
I was very pleased with the work, but the price of glue was not small ...
The tube has a thin nose, carefully distributes the wallpaper on both sides and puts a certain amount of glue into the hole, then presses the soft back on the wrist, you can use a cloth ...
If you have already stitched the background and the stitched joints, try a thin brush with a thin brush to cover the glue for the ceiling cladding or PVA, and then press the background well.
Tape for joints is almost impossible to glue, but in general on tape strips we get quality. If you can stick the tape, it will be fine. The tape is self-adhesive, it is simply glued, but for this you will have to loosen the edges of the background for this.
Wallpaper glue in the joints can be both, but the joints should be well pressed, which came do not cling.
Take the brush and tighten the straps well. After that, press them with a special roller. If you do everything right and dry well, you will no longer be bothered.
The joints on the wallpaper after gluing are visible: what to do and how to fix it?
Housing renewal is always a joy, even despite many difficulties.
Wallpapering the walls - in fact, the easiest way to make easy redecoration by ennoblement of housing. However, the picture in the imagination before decoration and the realities after do not always coincide. Agree, it is very unpleasant when various flaws come out. How to avoid grief? Of course, do everything according to the recommendations, observing the proportions, but it is also important to be informed about possible problems.
Then their decision will not become a stumbling block and will not cause irritation.
So, let's talk about what to do if the wallpaper is divided at the joints. To do this, we will analyze the main question, why do joints appear on the wallpaper, is it possible to avoid this when pasting, what to do if, immediately after gluing, the wallpaper at the joints parted or peeled off.
And for starters, consider the main reasons why the joints of the wallpaper are visible the day after finishing.
The most common causes are the following problems.
Softening and swelling
Simple physics from a school bench teaches us that paper under the influence of moisture tends to increase in volume and size. It follows that the joints between the wallpaper when they dry can increase by 3-5 mm, and this is quite a lot.
By applying the adhesive to the paper web, it will increase in volume. Applying it end-to-end and not considering this fact, you can get a gaping gap with the clearance of the wall. How to avoid? It's simple: after the wallpaper is thoroughly smeared with glue, you need to immediately apply them to the wall. With each minute they will swell even more, which means that after drying they will decrease.
In addition, this is especially true for paper canvases: cellulose tends to swell unevenly.
That is, as a result, the joints can converge and diverge, taking all the accuracy of the finish. Of course, less likely to get ugly joints on vinyl wallpaper. Since their base contains polymeric materials that do not change their size too much after soaking.
However, there is another important point in this - glue.
Too much of it also leads to excessive swelling of the canvas. Therefore, for applying glue, special brushes and rollers are often recommended, which prevent the excess layer.
For example, if you buy non-woven wallpaper, glue does not need to be applied to the canvas at all. Enough to smear the wall. Thanks to this there will be no strong expansion of the wallpaper. This means that the gluing of the joints of the wallpaper will take place more evenly and smoothly.
Sometimes the problem may not be in the finishing technology, but in the material itself.
And then it will be very difficult to fix the joints of the wallpaper. All because rolls can be from different series. Then their joints will simply be different. For example, one edge is darker or lighter.
When the roll is folded, the defect is not visible, when glued, they do not pay attention to it, but after drying it is already difficult to fix anything.
Therefore, precautions should be applied when choosing a wallpaper, namely: you need to look so that the paintings belong to the same series.
If this does not happen, all the consequences will already be unpredictable. In order to check the series, you need to carefully look at the liner on a roll. Usually all information is indicated there.
The seams on the wallpaper have spread - how to glue them
The price of wallpaper, of course, can also affect problems with joints, but you can not sin specifically on inexpensive paintings, since the probability of seeing uneven joints in expensive wallpapers is almost the same.
Another problem with the wallpaper is the damaged end face of the paintings.
In this case, it will not be surprising if the wallpaper came off at the joints after gluing or torn noticeable stripes turned out. Damage to the end of the wallpaper may be due to improper transportation. If such wallpapers were bought at the store, it means that they were stored vertically, on top of each other, which led to wrinkled edges. However, there is the option of damage to the adhesion. The rolls at the joints are sealed with polyethylene very strongly, as a result of which some protection is formed. If the adhesion is damaged, there is no guarantee that the edges of the wallpaper are not torn.
An important conclusion follows from this: rolls must be chosen very carefully, paying attention to:
- batch (series) number,
- packaging integrity (especially along the edges of the roll),
- lack of roll deformation and visible damage to the wallpaper inside the package.
What to do if joints are already visible?
There are two options: either re-stick new wallpaper, or slightly change the interior, complementing the trim moldings.
There are vertical narrow stripes, similar to molding, of various options. They can be a good decoration for the joints and the original design of the room. Therefore, do not panic.
If the wallpaper peeled off at the joints, this can be fixed using the same glue. It is enough to carefully apply the composition under the canvas with a syringe and iron it well with a roller or towel.
For the best and reliable result, you can use PVA glue for joints.
Then you get the minimum cost and maximum benefit from wallpapering the walls. Another recommendation in the end may be the choice of drawing. It is advisable to give preference to those canvases that do not have clear labels or pictures that need to be joined. Then you can do all the work quickly enough and enjoy the finish.